Winter Mountain Craft

Course Preview

Max Ratio 1:6/4
2 Day week end or 3-5 Day mid week
This where the confident summer hill walker turns into a true mountaineer!
These winter mountain programs are ideal for those folks wanting to brush up on basic winter skills learnt previously or to progress a variety of mountain activities all year round. This is an ideal opportunity for keen summer hill walkers who want to progress confidently into the more challenging UK winter mountain environments above the snowline  - with an ideal lead in to a first Alpine season and easier Alpine ascents. Learn how to deal with short day light hours, variable snow conditions underfoot, strong winds, rain and even some snow and ice!

Previous Experience

Some previous winter experience is assumed - summer hill walking with map and compass experience is essential. Familiarity with some basic rope work is assumed with good level of personal hill fitness is recommended. You should be “hill fit” enough to comfortably tackle long days on the hill involving some ascents from sea level to 1000m with some easy winter climbing thrown in.

Course Details

This not a technical winter climbing course as such. The program will include the use of ropes both for safety and protection on steeper and exposed ground with the ascent of classic Munros and Grade 1- 11 winter routes in the area of Ben Nevis and Glen Coe.
There will always be an intensive and in depth consolidation of core winter skills as taught on the Winter Mountain Walking Course. You will be introduced to and become competent in basic rope work, belaying skills on snow and ice, anchor selection, with safe and confident movement on steeper and more exposed winter ground up to about 50 degrees up to Grade 1/11. Protection on easier climbs and the ability to negotiate cornices – plus the use of lowers and abseiling.

Programme Itinerary

• Advice and evaluation of personal equipment, clothing and gear including the correct personal choice, adjustment and fitting of crampons.
• Intensive revision and consolidation of basic winter skills & winter rope work  - as on Winter Mountain Walking Course.
• Efficient movement and footwork on hard steep snow and easier ice. Correct, efficient use and placement of boots and crampons. Front pointing.
• Rope work & Belays – setting up belays, belaying with waist belays & belay devices; Cornice work.
• Snow, Ice & Rock belays – horizontal, vertical & T axe belays; dead men, snow mushrooms; ice screws; threads & snow buckets. Use and removal of rock anchors in winter. Protection on winter routes.
• Snow craft including moving together,
• Route finding on gullies & ridges.
• Ascent of straightforward graded winter climbs. (Grade 1-111) - where there is a maximum of one instructor to three clients.
• Applied safety and rescue techniques are included in the program as a basis for a first summer Alpine-climbing season.
• A daily assessment of weather and snow conditions along with avalanche awareness and prediction. Snow structure and snow profiles looking at stability, snow pits, basic shear tests, walking rutschblock tests, slope aspect.

Possible choice of Routes

The Aonachs, Mamores, Carn Mor Dearg Arete / Ben Nevis, Ledge Route / Ben Nevis (11), Curved Ridge (11), Stob Coire an Lochan / Glen Coe, Aonach Eagach Rdige / Glen Coe (11 – 111).

Introduction to Snow and Ice Climbing

Course Preview
Max Ratio 1:2/4
2 Day week end or 3-5 Day mid week
The aim is to give greater confidence through skills training so that clients can realistically go away and progress their own more challenging winter climbing in safety, at their own pace and level, both in the UK and overseas. The courses are more demanding in terms of personal skills, stamina and gear. Each course of this type is tailored to the individual needs, ability, motivation and aspirations of clients.

Previous Experience
These winter courses are more technical in content. and are aimed at folks who already have some limited personal experience of winter mountaineering and climbing. Clients attending these courses are confident of their own basic winter skills and should be happy moving on at least Grade 11 ground. It is recommended that you should have been on a previous  Winter Mountaineering Course either with us or elsewhere, and will also have a background in rope work. An ideal progression for those wanting to start leading easier winter routes or take their winter climbing grade up a step or two. You should be “hill fit” enough to comfortably tackle long days on the hill with some more technical winter climbing thrown in.

Programme Itinerary
There will always be an informative and worthwhile high input revision session of more basic techniques from our Winter Mountaincraft Course before moving on to more challenging and new techniques. This is always an ideal opportunity to check out skills and techniques with a practising instructor or guide.

• An introduction to steeper ice climbing with the opportunity climb led routes to Grade 111.
• Climbing, rope and belay techniques – single and double ropes; direct and indirect belays, belay devices; waist belays; front pointing on steep ice; axe techniques on easy and steep ice; use of technical axes;
• Moving together roped on steep ground (grade 1/11)
• Escape from a winter route using multi-pitch abseils using snow, rock and ice anchors.
• The opportunity to lead a route (Grade 1/11) under the supervision and alongside an instructor.

Possible choice of Routes
Aonach Eagach Ridge / Glen Coe (11-111), Curved Ridge / Glen Coe (11), Dorsal Arete / Glen Coe / The Buachaille (11), Tower Ridge / Ben Nevis (111), Castle Ridge / Ben Nevis (111), Left Twin / Aonach Mor (111),